Your grip is the only contact point between you and the club. Get it wrong and the clubface angle, swing path, and power transfer all suffer — no matter how good the rest of your swing is.
The right pinky finger rests in the groove between the left index and middle finger — overlapping rather than wrapping around the club.
Best for: Players with large hands or longer fingers. The most widely taught grip for adult players.
Pros: Encourages the hands to work together; reduces tension in the trail hand; widely used on tour.
Cons: Can feel unstable for players with small hands or weaker grip strength.
The right pinky and left index finger interlock (link together) so the hands are physically connected.
Best for: Players with small or short fingers, beginners, and juniors. Used by Tiger Woods and Jack Nicklaus.
Pros: More secure connection between hands; easier for players who struggle to keep hands unified.
Cons: Can create tension in the fingers if locked too tight; some find it uncomfortable on long rounds.
All ten fingers are on the club — no overlap or interlock. The hands sit directly next to each other.
Best for: Junior golfers, players with arthritis or small hands, or beginners just learning the game.
Pros: Most natural to hold; maximum surface area on club; easy to learn.
Cons: Hands can act independently causing the face to open or close inconsistently; loses some power transfer.
Grip pressure should sit at 4–6 out of 10. Numbers below mean the club can twist in your hands; numbers above tighten your forearms and kill wrist hinge.
V-check for hand position: With both hands on the club at address, the V formed by the thumb and forefinger of EACH hand should point between your chin and right shoulder. If both V's aim at your left shoulder — grip is weak (open face). If both V's aim outside your right shoulder — grip is strong (closed face).
Signs: Forearms tense at address; low ball flight; loss of distance; restricted follow-through
Cause: Nervousness or the instinct to "hold on" when the swing feels out of control increases grip pressure
Fix: Aim for 4–5 on a 10-point pressure scale. If your knuckles are white, loosen by 30%. Hold like you're squeezing a ripe fruit — firm enough it won't fall, gentle enough it won't bruise.
Signs: Persistent hook or pull; ball curves hard left; hands roll over through impact
Cause: Trail hand is positioned too far under the club, promoting a closed clubface at impact
Fix: Check your left hand — you should see 2–2.5 knuckles. If you see 3 or 4, rotate the left hand counter-clockwise (toward neutral). Check with the V between thumb and forefinger pointing at your right shoulder.
Signs: Slices and pushes to the right; ball flight is high and weak; face is open at impact
Cause: Hands rotated too far counter-clockwise, leaving the face open through impact
Fix: Rotate both hands clockwise slightly so 2–2.5 knuckles are visible on the left hand. Both V's (thumb/forefinger) should point between the chin and right shoulder.
Signs: Inconsistent shot shape; ball goes different directions on similar swings; feels like re-gripping at the top
Cause: The hands are not unified — they move independently in the backswing and re-engage awkwardly at the top
Fix: Grip pressure should be equal in both hands. Do a squeeze check before every shot: hold for 2 seconds and make sure pressure is the same in each hand.
Start with the overlapping grip if you have average-to-large hands, or the interlocking grip if your hands are small. Baseball grip works for kids or players with joint pain. Stick with one style — switching mid-season resets muscle memory.
Place the club diagonally across the fingers of your left hand — from the base of the little finger to the middle joint of the index finger. The handle should NOT run through the palm. Close the hand: 2 to 2.5 knuckles should be visible when you look down. The thumb runs down the right side of the shaft (slightly right of center).
Place the right hand so the lifeline of the palm covers the left thumb. The right-hand fingers wrap under the grip. Overlap or interlock the pinky (or just lay it alongside). The right thumb sits slightly left of center on the shaft. The V formed by right thumb and forefinger should point between chin and right shoulder.
With the club held in front of you at address, both V's (formed by thumb and forefinger on each hand) should point to the same spot — between your chin and right shoulder. If one V points left and the other right, the hands are fighting each other.
Grip pressure on a 1–10 scale should be 4–6: firm enough that the club won't twist, light enough that your forearms are not flexed. Check your pressure by releasing and re-gripping before every shot. Tension creeps up under pressure — consciously lighten it.
The knuckle check: After gripping, look down at your left hand. You should see 2 to 2.5 knuckles. One knuckle = too weak (will slice). Three or more knuckles = too strong (will hook). This is the fastest way to self-check your grip without a mirror.
The overlapping (Vardon) grip is the most commonly taught and a great starting point. If your hands are small or you are a junior, the interlocking grip gives a more secure feel. Pick one, practice it until it feels automatic, then stick with it — the grip that becomes second nature is the right one for you.
About 4–6 on a 1–10 scale. A common image is holding a small bird — firm enough it cannot fly away, gentle enough you would not crush it. A tight grip (7–10) restricts the wrists from hinging properly and costs distance. A loose grip (1–3) lets the club face twist at impact.
A strong grip means the hands are rotated clockwise (to the right for right-handers), showing 3 or more knuckles on the lead hand. This tends to close the clubface and cause hooks. A weak grip means hands rotated counter-clockwise, showing only 1 knuckle — tends to leave the face open and cause slices. A neutral grip shows 2–2.5 knuckles and promotes a square face at impact.
Yes — the same grip type, same hand placement, same pressure. Some players unconsciously tighten when they pick up the driver, which ruins the swing sequence. Develop one grip and apply it identically to every club. The only exception is chipping, where some players prefer a shorter, slightly firmer grip to control distance.
A correct grip often feels wrong at first, especially if you have been gripping the club incorrectly for years. Give the new grip 1,000 practice swings before judging. During that learning period, it will feel weak and unfamiliar — that is normal. If it still feels wrong after several weeks of consistent practice, get a lesson to verify your hand position is actually correct.
Significantly. A strong grip (hands too far right) tends to close the face and produce hooks and draws. A weak grip (hands too far left) tends to open the face and cause slices and fades. Neutralizing your grip is often the fastest way to straighten a persistent shot shape problem without changing your swing.
The V check: with both hands on the club at address, look at the V shape formed between the thumb and forefinger of each hand. For a neutral grip, both V's should point between your chin and right shoulder. If the left V points at your left shoulder, the grip is weak. If both V's point at your right shoulder, the grip is strong.
Yes — at minimum every 40-50 rounds, or once a year if you play that often. Worn grips become slick and force you to squeeze harder to maintain control, which raises pressure and stiffens your swing. New grips should feel slightly tacky. Check yours now: if they feel hard or smooth, replace them.
Setup routine · Golf posture · Swing basics · Ball position · Alignment · Swing tempo